A construction-focused comparison of two standard kilt pleating methods
When a kiltmaker forms the pleated section of a kilt, each pleat is a fold of fabric that overlaps the previous one at the waistband and releases below it. The visible outer edge of each pleat is the only part of the pleat fabric that will be seen once the kilt is worn — the inner fold is hidden beneath it. The decision the kiltmaker must make is which part of the tartan pattern to align at that visible outer edge. This decision, repeated consistently across every pleat in the back panel, determines the entire visual appearance of the kilt from behind.
Two main alignment approaches are in common use. In pleating to the sett, the kiltmaker positions each pleat so that its visible outer edge shows a complete repeat — or a defined portion of the full sett sequence — of the tartan. The goal is for the full tartan pattern to appear across the back panel, with each pleat contributing its own section of the complete design. When the pleats are closed, the back looks like the tartan pattern is flowing continuously across the surface. When the pleats open during movement, the same pattern continues into the interior of each fold, preserving the design throughout.
In pleating to the stripe, the kiltmaker aligns each pleat's visible edge to a single prominent stripe within the tartan — typically the most dominant or darkest stripe in the sett. When the pleats are closed and the back panel hangs straight, the viewer sees that same stripe repeated uniformly at each pleat fold. The result is a more regimented, striped appearance rather than the full tartan design. This is considered the more formal presentation in some traditional Highland conventions and is particularly associated with military and ceremonial kilts.
Each pleat edge shows a defined section of the full tartan pattern. The complete design flows continuously across the back panel. Opening and closing of the pleats reveals the same tartan throughout. Often preferred for modern wear and where the full pattern is visually attractive.
Each pleat edge aligns to a single prominent stripe. The closed back panel shows a uniform striped appearance. Associated with more formal, military, and ceremonial Highland traditions. Particularly effective on tartans with a strong dominant stripe.
The size of the tartan's sett repeat plays a significant role in how easily each pleating method can be executed. Pleating to the sett is generally easier to achieve consistently on tartans with a compact repeat, because the short distance between repeat boundaries makes it straightforward to align each pleat at the same point in the pattern. On a tartan with a large sett repeat, pleating to the sett requires careful calculation to ensure that the repeat falls correctly across the available pleat count, which may require adjustments to pleat spacing or depth.
Pleating to the stripe works well on almost any tartan that has a clearly identifiable dominant stripe, regardless of sett size. Since the alignment point is a single coloured stripe rather than a full pattern sequence, the kiltmaker simply needs to locate that stripe in each pleat fold with consistent spacing. This makes stripe pleating more straightforward to execute on complex or large-repeat tartans, which may partially explain its historical preference in military contexts where consistency and standardisation were priorities.
Some tartans present a particular challenge for pleating to the sett because their design does not divide evenly across the number of pleats that the fabric width allows. In these cases, a skilled kiltmaker will adjust pleat spacing slightly, modify the starting position of the pattern, or choose pleating to the stripe as the more practical option. The final visual result in the finished garment is the measure of success rather than adherence to any theoretical preference for one method over the other.
One of the most revealing tests of any pleating method is how the back panel looks while the wearer is moving. With pleating to the sett, movement opens the pleats and the tartan pattern continues visibly into the interior of each fold. The overall effect is a rich, patterned surface that maintains its complexity as the fabric swings and fans with each step. Observers from behind see the full tartan in motion, which many wearers find visually satisfying and traditionally appropriate.
With pleating to the stripe, movement reveals a different effect. As the pleats open, the inner surfaces of the folds show the full tartan design, contrasting with the uniform striped exterior visible when the pleats are closed. This creates an interesting two-phase appearance — formal and regimented when standing still, more visually complex during movement. Some wearers appreciate this as a hidden richness in the garment; others simply prefer the consistent full-pattern appearance of sett pleating in all positions.
The practical visual difference between the two methods is most apparent when evaluating finished kilts side by side, particularly on tartans with complex or colourful sett sequences. On some simpler tartans where the sett repeat is predominantly one or two colours, the difference between sett and stripe pleating may be subtle enough that casual observers cannot readily distinguish between them. On richly complex tartans with many colours and a distinctive dominant stripe, the visual difference between the two methods is immediately clear.
Neither pleating method is universally superior to the other. Pleating to the sett is often preferred for civilian wear, heritage kilts, and situations where the wearer wants the full visual richness of their chosen tartan to be on display. It showcases the tartan's complete design and is generally considered the more appropriate approach for patterns that are visually complex or where the sett was specifically designed to be appreciated as a whole. Many contemporary kiltmakers default to sett pleating for civilian orders unless the client specifically requests stripe pleating.
Pleating to the stripe is often considered the more formal choice, particularly for military-inspired outfits, ceremonial occasions, and situations where a disciplined, regimented appearance is appropriate. Its association with Highland military dress gives it a particular authority in formal contexts. Some clan societies have preferences for one method over the other when specifying how their traditional tartan should be worn, and these preferences are worth checking if you are making a kilt for a specific ceremonial purpose.
For anyone commissioning a kilt from experienced tartan men's kiltmakers, the pleating method is worth discussing as a deliberate choice rather than accepting whatever default approach the maker uses. Both methods produce a well-made kilt; the difference is entirely in visual presentation. Understanding what each method does to the appearance of the back panel allows you to make an informed choice that matches your intended use, your aesthetic preference, and the visual character of the tartan you have chosen.
The choice between sett and stripe pleating changes how the tartan is presented rather than changing the identity of the tartan itself. Understanding sett and stripe pleating makes the construction easier to appreciate.
| Feature | Pleating to the Sett | Pleating to the Stripe |
|---|---|---|
| Closed back appearance | Full tartan pattern visible | Uniform dominant stripe repeated |
| Open pleat appearance | Pattern continues throughout | Full tartan visible inside each fold |
| Typical context | Civilian, heritage, everyday formal | Military, ceremonial, formal Highland |
| Sett size consideration | Most practical on compact repeats | Works reliably across most sett sizes |
| Pattern showcase | Full design on display | Focuses attention on dominant stripe |